Researchers have discovered fabric dyed with kermes (Kermes vermilio) in the Cave of the Skulls, which bears traces of the Middle Bronze Age.
The piece of red fabric found in the Cave of the Skulls in the Judean Desert was made of linen and wool. Radiocarbon dating dated the fabric to the Middle Bronze Age, specifically between 1954 and 1767 BC. What makes this find unique is the use of red dye, which in ancient times was derived from the luxurious and rare color source of the Kermes vermilioa beetle.
In a study of the discovered textiles, scientists analyzed the dye using High Pressure Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) and identified a unique, red-dyed textile dyed with scale insects.
This technique allowed the presence of the dye to be detected and confirmed that the red dye originated from the scale insect Kermes vermilio, which parasitizes oak trees, specifically Quercus coccifera. Although destructive, this method only needs a small sample, preserving the integrity of the old object.
Like wooden finds, textiles are rare items in the archaeological record because of their perishable nature and the rapid decay to which they are subjected.
Their preservation under special conditions, such as in caves in the Judean Desert, makes them extremely valuable.
Despite its small size, the detailed study of this textile allows researchers to trace the origin of the red color back to the type of insect used, an important discovery not only for its age, but also for what it reveals about the knowledge and technology of ancient civilizations in the use and application of natural dyes.
Given that using dyes made from scaly insects such as Kermes vermilio was an expensive and labor-intensive process, it is possible that these textiles served as symbols of status and power in prehistoric societies.
In addition to reflecting individual preferences, textile color was used in ancient societies as a system of nonverbal communication about a person’s social and economic status.
The study was published in the Journal of Archaeological Science: Reports.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jasrep.2024.104673
Cover Photo: Fabric dyed with kermes. Dafna Gazit / Israel Antiquities Authority
